Travelling to the Black Forest with small children — does it work?

Yes. Not just “works”, but “works really well”. The High Black Forest is one of the few holiday regions in Germany where families with children under five can genuinely move around in a relaxed way — short distances, plenty of nature, child-friendly infrastructure, and a climate that stays comfortable even in high summer.

That goes double for the area around Feldberg. At 1,277 metres elevation, it stays 5 to 8 degrees cooler than the valleys even during heatwaves — ideal for children who overheat quickly. And the highest point reaches 1,493 metres: well away from city noise, but without having to drive all the way to the Alps.

We give an honest overview of what realistically works on a Black Forest holiday with under-fives, and what is better skipped.

Pram-friendly trails around Feldberg

Not every hiking trail in the Black Forest works with a pram — many paths are narrow, root-laced, or steep. But there are several genuinely good routes that work with a pushchair:

Feldsee circular trail (3 km, approx. 1 hour) — the wide hiking trail from the Feldsee car park to the lake is navigable with any pushchair. The lake itself is flat, with shade and several benches for breastfeeding or snacks.
Windgfallweiher loop (6 km, approx. 1.5 hours) — flat, lakeside, mostly shaded. In summer, the quieter alternative to Titisee.
Titisee promenade — fully paved, with ice cream parlours, toilets, and playgrounds along the way. A classic morning out.
Schluchsee promenade — similar but less touristy. The lido area is well accessible with a buggy.
Wichtel trail at Feldberg — workable from about age 4 walking; with buggy only the first stations.

What does not work: Feldberg-Steig, Zastler Loch, Wiesental trail to Todtnau. These routes are great, but definitely not for prams.

Tip: If you mostly stick to such trails, a normal buggy is enough. For more off-road capability, a sturdy jogger or a pushchair with air tyres pays off — especially after rain, when even the good trails get a bit muddy.

Sling or carrier? An honest assessment

For hikes off the main trails, a child carrier (Kraxe-style backpack) is worth its weight in gold. Models from Deuter, Osprey, or Vaude work well for children from about 6 months to about 3 years — as long as they weigh under 18 kg.

For shorter distances or with a baby under 6 months, a good sling or comfort carrier (Manduca, Ergobaby) is perfectly enough. At the viewpoints on the Seebuck or Feldberg summit, we have often seen parents with babies in slings — it all works if you adjust your pace.

Safe swimming spots for toddlers

Schluchsee Lido (Aqua Fun)

The shallow entry at Schluchsee lido is ideal for children under 5. There is a fenced non-swimmer area, a sunbathing lawn with shade, sanitary facilities, and a playground. Entry 4-7 euros for adults, children under 6 often free.

Family beach at Titisee

On the north side of Titisee there is a small but lovely beach area with pedalo rental in sight. The water is clear and pleasant in high summer, but the shoreline is rockier than at Schluchsee — water shoes for the little ones are a good idea.

Badeparadies Schwarzwald (indoor)

In cool weather or rain, the Badeparadies in Titisee-Neustadt is your safe harbour. The Palm Oasis has tropical temperatures, a baby area with very shallow water, and changing facilities right by the poolside. The Galaxy slide world is only interesting from school age — toddlers stay in the palm world.

What does not work

Swimming in the Feldsee is generally forbidden (nature reserve). At Schluchsee outside the lido, many spots have a steep drop-off — not ideal for children who are not yet confident swimmers.

Child-friendly restaurants

In the Black Forest, restaurants welcome children almost everywhere. High chairs are the rule, not the exception. What we have tried and can recommend:

Berggasthaus Todtnauer Hütte — high chairs available, play corner outside, large selection of simple dishes (schnitzel, fries, spätzle). Outdoor terrace with unobstructed view.
Gasthaus Hebelhof Feldberg — solid Black Forest food, children’s portions on request, playground 50 metres away.
Café am See (Titisee) — garden seating directly on the lake, cake and a simple lunch menu. No play corner, but the promenade right next door.
Berghaus Schluchsee — viewpoint restaurant with a large outdoor area, often families on site. Breastfeeding is not problematised here.

Generally helpful: eat before 12:30 PM or after 2:00 PM — in between, the venues are often full and the wait time for a family longer.

Changing, breastfeeding, emergencies

Changing on the go

Public changing tables are not standard in the rural Black Forest. Reliable options:

Badeparadies Schwarzwald (multiple)
Titisee railway station (women’s WC, limited)
Feldberg town hall (during opening hours)
Edeka in Titisee-Neustadt
Larger restaurants with modern sanitary facilities

A small changing mat should always be in the hiking gear — even a car boot with a folded-out blanket works without problems.

Breastfeeding

Breastfeeding in public is relaxed in the Black Forest — we have never experienced negative reactions. On the viewpoint benches at Feldberg, in cafes, on the promenades: just do it. A light blanket or breastfeeding scarf helps on windier days at the summit.

Pharmacies and doctors

Apotheke Feldberg (main village, limited opening hours)
Apotheke Titisee-Neustadt (multiple)
Paediatric practices in Titisee-Neustadt and Löffingen
Emergency 112 also works in mountain regions — mobile reception at Feldberg is mostly good, in the deeper valleys partly patchy

Before arrival: save emergency numbers and possibly note the nearest clinic with a paediatric department (Klinikum Donaueschingen, approx. 40 minutes).

A daily schedule with toddlers

What works for us in practice:

Morning: One activity — hike, swim, or excursion. Maximum 3 hours, with a snack break.
Lunch: Back to the apartment. Lunch in your own kitchen (this is gold), then nap.
Afternoon: Something quieter — playground, ice cream, short walk.
Evening: Eat in the apartment again, early to bed. Mountain air makes you tired — even the parents.

The biggest mistake with toddlers on holiday is over-programming. Better one good thing per day than three half ones.

Why a holiday apartment with small children is almost mandatory

With a hotel room, a family holiday with two small children quickly becomes a logistics exercise. Where to change? Where to warm the bottle? Where do the children sleep when the parents are still awake? In a holiday apartment, these questions solve themselves.

In our apartments at Black Forest Dream there is:

Fully equipped kitchen — warm baby food, cook porridge, prepare snacks without a foreign restaurant kitchen
Separate sleeping area — children can sleep early, parents still have their evening
Self check-in — arrive after the nap, without reception stress with tired children
Free parking right at the building — child car seats, buggy, baby carrier: everything stowed in two minutes
Pet-friendly — the family dog is welcome too
No staircase traps — apartment layout without risky spots for walking two-year-olds

Apartment 1 with terrace or Apartment 10 with two bedrooms are particularly suitable for families. Both offer enough space that everyone has their own area — which can become the deciding variable after three days of bad weather.

Stay with us

Planning a stay at Feldberg? Our holiday apartments are located right in the High Black Forest — self check-in, mountain panorama, infrared sauna, and 7% cheaper than Booking.com.